Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life
by William Finnegan
Editor: Little, Brown Book Group
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2016WINNER 2016 WILLIAM HILL PULITZER AWARD FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORT BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZESurfing only looks like a sport.For the connoisseurs, it’s quite another thing: a beautiful dependency, physical and mental of the study, a passionate lifestyle enthusiast.William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and HawaiiBarbaric Days is his immersive memory of a life spent traveling around the world chasing waves across the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond.Finnegan describes the still enduring edgy of fellowship forged within the swell, waves; and recalling his own learning for the world’s most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship that has developed between man, council and waterBarbaric Days is an old school old-fashioned adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of a man’s progressive mastery of demanding and little understood by art.It is a memory of dangerous, obsession and enchantment.
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